eau–de–vie: a clear brandy distilled from the
fermented juice of fruit.
French, literally,
water of life, translation of Medieval Latin aqua vitae
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A Selection of Domaine du Tariquet Bas Armagnac |
Bordeaux. Whether or not you are a wine drinker, the
name Bordeaux is familiar and connotes a prestigious sort of French wine. Just
north of Bordeaux, in Poitou-Charentes, Cognac, France’s best-known brandy, is
also familiar. Armagnac, brandy made
from grapes grown just south of Bordeaux in Gascony, carries none of the instant name recognition of its neighbors
to the north. Lacking a huge, powerhouse brand like Remy Martin (Cognac) or Château Lafite Rothschild
(Bordeaux), Armagnac and Gascony are simply less well-known in the United States than other
French wine regions. Domaine du Tariquet, a
premier Armagnac producer in Eauze, Gascony, since 1683, just might generate
awareness of the region on par with Alexandre
Dumas -- you know, the author who wrote The
Three Muskateers and whose protagonist, d'Artagnan, hails from Gascony.
Hello
Gascony
Not far from the cooling breezes of the Atlantic Ocean
and the pointy peaks of the Pyrenees, Domaine
du Tariquet was purchased by the Grassa family in 1912. In the years after
the Second World War, the family significantly expanded the land holdings of
the estate from 10 hectares in 1946 to over 100 hectares by the early 1970’s.
At this juncture, the family shifted from selling its barrels of Armagnac to regional
negotiants to growing, vinifying and selling its wines under its own name, a.k.a.
100 percent estate-bottled Armagnac. And in the 1990’s, while continuing to
expand its land holdings, the Grassa family planted wine grapes for the first
time; the traditional Ugniblanc grape of Armagnac, regional varietals such as
Colombard and Gros Manseng, and global powerhouse grapes, Chardonnay and
Sauvignon Blanc. Demand surged after Tariquet won a gold medal at Montpelier for
the Classic
wine in 1980 and was awarded White Wine Maker of the Year in a London tasting
event in 1987. (Look here
for where to find the Classic and
other Tariquet wines near you.)
Tariquet’s white wines exhibit a brilliant freshness
and, at retail prices under US$15, are affordable luxuries. Gascony, unlike
Bordeaux or Burgundy or other famous French wine regions, is not widely
recognized for quality wine. Drinking Tariquet feels rebellious and novel, as
though I’ve stumbled onto a secret. Similarly, drinking American wine was once
considered unusual, too. It was not until the 1970’s that Napa first received
recognition as a wine region, when a Napa Cabernet Sauvignon (1973 Stag’s Leap
Cellars) and a Napa Chardonnay (1973 Chateau Montelena) won in blind
competition against French wines at the Judgment of Paris in 1976. As with
Napa wines, wines from Gascony have found a place at the table.
New
Cocktails
Savoring a glass of Armagnac as a digestif with a nibble
of blue cheese would make a stunning end to any meal and Tariquet makes a range
of exciting VS, VSOP, XO as well as cask strength Bas Armagnacs (Bas is one of
the planting areas where grapes for Armagnac are grown). To enjoy Armagnac as an
aperitif, try Tariquet’s newest bottling, Blanche (White) Armagnac A.O.C. Made from 100 percent Folle Blanche grapes, Blanche
is supple and creamy on the palate with a surprising, almost salty finish. Blanche,
like her darker complected counterparts, would be delicious served ice cold
with a side of blue cheese and fresh pear but the force of the modern cocktail
movement nearly insists that Blanche be muddled with lime and mint for an updated
Mojito. I plan to experiment with Blanche, adding Blanche to a cocktail anywhere
vodka once trod.
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A well-chilled bottle of Tariquet Blanche Armagnac A.O.C. |
Bordeaux? Cognac? Old school. Gascony? Your
time has come. And, with a slight adjustment to a Cuban classic cocktail, this Tariquet-driven
trip through Gascony in southwestern France is complete.
Blanche Mojito
4-6
cl Tariquet Blanche Armagnac A.O.C.
2-3
lime wedges
3-6
fresh mint leaves
1-2
tablespoons brown sugar
10
cl. Perrier or other sparkling water
Place the lime, mint and sugar in a tall glass and
gently muddle. Add crushed ice. Add Blanche Armagnac and Perrier to fill. Serve
with a straw and more fresh mint leaves.
Labels: blanche armagnac, brandy, classic wine, cognac, domaine du tariquet, eau-de-vie, french white wine, french wine, gascony, judgment of paris, modern cocktails, pyrenees