Some chefs are known for their way with beef or fish. Others are known for their attention to detail and the refinement of the presentation of the plate. But it is a rare few who can make their mark using protein-free food stuffs, aka vegetables.
Often received with scorn - witness the perennial Top Chef program and the immediate offing of any chef who dares to offer Colicchio, et al a plate free from animal fat – chefs who focus on vegetables are making themselves noticed here in the Bay Area and around the country.
Around the Bay, these Masters of the Art of Vegetable Maintenance can be counted on one hand ~ Hiro Sone of Terra and Ame, Daniel Patterson at Coi and new-ish kid, Jeremy Fox at Ubuntu.
Ubuntu can be considered the lone wolf of the three ~ there is no meat or fish served at Ubuntu. It is simply not offered on the menu. Sustainable or otherwise, there is no trendy charcuterie plate, no beef cheeks, no sardines. The focus is exclusively on vegetables and their brethren, grains and fruits. It is not a vegan restaurant although dishes can be made vegan or gluten-free.
This dedicated focus to the literal fruits of the soil does not mean, however, you will walk away hungry. Portions are substantial. Chili is chock-full of beans, tomatoes and pearled barley and, served with a side of bread and fresh butter, is a meal unto itself. Beets are served with varieties of garden lettuces you might not immediately recognize, puffed quinoa “cracker” and a creamy avocado dressing. A tomatoes dish is topped with burrata (or not) and grits (American polenta) is found underneath a morning-fresh egg and mushroom ”bacon”.
Many chefs rely on bacon or other animal fats ~ butter, rendered duck fat ~ to enhance flavor and/or create a creamy experience for your palate. Hell, I do it too! My Mom wrapped chicken in bacon to keep the breast from drying out and cold duck fat spread thin on dark bread was a staple in my childhood home, but Chef Fox does not seem to miss this go-to, old-school technique. Fox does use dairy and eggs in his menu, but he understands the core value of each vegetable and can coax the best flavor from the humblest turnip. The trick up his sleeve seems to be solid training in cookery, partnerships with local food artisans and the local community and a passion for his work.
Not stuffy, not crunchy, not gimmicky, Ubuntu appeals to your basic desire to eat good food and eat it prepared very well.
I am looking forward to his cookbook. Word is he is “almost finished”. Let’s hope so!Labels: gluten-free, napa valley, vegan, vegetable