Years ago, I worked around the corner from here at 909 3rd. PJ Clarke’s was a regular after work spot to grab a beer and casual American food.
My return visit to this New York-ese brew pub was 13 years in the making. On a recent trip to the City, Stefan, Doug and I walked by after a stop at Maurice Villency on 3rd and 57th. I had to go in.
Black and white tiles cover the floor, lighting dims as you move from front to back, and the lamps look as though they were once filled with kerosene. A large, clubby bar occupies the front; checker-cloth tables fill the back. At mid-afternoon, we were seated right away.
We sat down and ordered drinks. An East Coast oyster 12-pack, french fries, and salad quickly followed.
There is one item on the menu, Bubble and Squeak with Drip Bacon, that piqued my interest. Was this an Americanized Irish dish? German? When does it bubble? When does it squeak? What could it possible be made of? I could not imagine a plate of food offered to a diner anywhere in the US that would make obscene noises upon arrival at the table. Lo, I called over the server, who informed me of the name’s origin. Comprised of hash brown potatoes and cabbage, smashed into a patty shape and deep-fried, the darn thing bubbles when thrown into the grease and squeaks shortly thereafter. (I must ask Harold McGee about this!)
Of course, we ordered one. It was served with a simple “Heinz 57 gravy” and tasted divine. What a treat!
We lingered over beers and slowly made our way to the downtown E train….
915 Third @ 55th st
The Big Apple
T: (212) 317-1616
http://www.pjclarkes.com/
Visited May 11, 2007Labels: american cuisine, new york city, PJ clarke's, restaurant