I will be frank. This review is inherently biased. I love Baumgart’s. I make it a point when I am home to eat their at least once, if possible. Two years ago, Bon Apétit magazine gave Baumgart’s a rave as a ‘Best Neighborhood’ restaurant. It had already doubled in size and is still packed to the rafters.
Years ago, and I mean the late 70s and 80s, Baumgart’s was an old school tri-state area Greek diner, known for its ice cream and coffee. My family never went. Northern New Jersey was and still is littered with these fossils. There was no need to seek out the food at this joint as identical food was available everywhere. Then, the earth shifted.
Baumgart’s was sold. To a Chinese family. No one knew what to expect. At first, the food stayed pretty much the same; reliable, bland, diner food, but the Specials board would show Chinese dishes like fat peanut noodles and steamed pressed duck crepes. With my Mom, I started going to check out the new place and ordered exclusively from the Specials board. Over time, the menu was re-vamped. Classic diner dishes like tuna salad and French fries would still be available but so would Chinese and Japanese dishes, some kosher. The original diner stools and stainless steel paneling were thankfully not revamped.
A fusion of ethnic flavors in one restaurant is not unique to New Jersey. But this place did not combine ethnic flavors within one dish. Instead, Baumgart’s offered authentic Chinese (broccoli salad, steamed dumplings, duck crepe), Japanese (sushi rolls, pepper tuna sashimi) and American (coconut shrimp) dishes on the same menu but kept each country’s flavors distinct from plate to plate. A rare thing to be sure and it immediately found a broad and diverse audience. Perhaps it is the focus on taste and not ethnic origin that makes this kitchen special.
That and the fabulous ice cream.
Baumgart’s Resaurant
45 E. Palisade Ave
Englewood, NJ 07631
http://www.baumgartscafe.com/Englewood/default.asp
Other branches are now open in Ridgewood and Edgewater but I have not been to either location. Too far!Labels: asian, cresskill, fusion, new jersey, restaurant